Dermaplaning is one of the most-requested add-ons in the studio. It’s also one of the most misunderstood — usually because of one persistent myth (we’ll get to it). Here’s the honest breakdown of what it actually does, who benefits most, and what you can expect.
What dermaplaning actually is
Dermaplaning is a manual exfoliation technique that uses a sterile, single-use surgical blade to gently remove dead skin cells and the fine vellus hair (often called peach fuzz) on the surface of the skin. It’s done in a controlled, sweeping motion at a precise angle.
The result is immediately smoother skin, more even texture, brighter tone, and significantly better product penetration. Makeup also goes on noticeably better afterward — no fuzz catching foundation.
The big myth: “Will my hair grow back thicker?”
No. This is the question every client asks, and the answer is the same one your dermatologist would give: no. Vellus hair (the fine peach fuzz on the face) is genetically determined. It will grow back at the exact same width and color it was before. Cutting it doesn’t change its structure — it grows from a follicle below the skin, untouched by what happens at the surface.
The reason this myth persists is that hair regrowth feels different the first few days because the cut end is blunt rather than tapered. As it grows out, the tapered tip returns and softness returns with it.
Who dermaplaning is ideal for
- Anyone wanting smoother makeup application or a brighter immediate finish.
- Skin types that don’t tolerate aggressive chemical exfoliants well.
- Clients with dull texture from buildup.
- Pregnant or nursing clients — dermaplaning is purely mechanical, no actives are required.
Who should skip it
- Active inflammatory acne — pustules and cystic lesions shouldn’t be passed over with a blade.
- Active rosacea flares.
- Any open wounds, cold sores, or recently sunburned skin.
How often should you do it?
Every 4 weeks is the sweet spot for most clients — that matches the natural cycle of cellular turnover. Doing it more frequently doesn’t produce better results because there isn’t enough new dead skin to remove.
Pairing it with other treatments
Dermaplaning is excellent as an add-on before a HydraFacial or chemical peel — clearing the surface so the next treatment penetrates more effectively. We frequently combine it with a customized facial for clients who want maximum brightness in a single visit.
